Visit Mexicali's La Chinesca
Story & photos by Ted Donovan
Did you know Mexicali has the largest Chinatown in Mexico? It's true and you can visit the area. A group called La Chinesca is preserving the Chinese area of Mexicali and the traditions of those immigrants who came from China.
The Chinese traveled to the hot, barren deserts of Mexicali, Baja California's capital, around 1900 to work on the railroads and irrigation canals being built on both sides of the border. After the construction was completed, many stayed and became merchants who opened up bars, restaurants, shops in the area now called La Chinesca next to the US/Mexico border.
Mexicali's history can not be written with out the contribution of the Chinese immigrants.
Underneath their shops and businesses, the industrious Chinese built elaborate basements, tunnels and pathways to both escape the extreme heat of the summers (as high as 120F) and to live/work unmolested from the local community. Unfortunately, over the decades many of the businesses and thus the underground community went bankrupt and were abandoned around the 1970's.
At one time these underground labyrinths housed a hospital, stores, places of worship, meeting halls, living quarters as well as dens of pleasure such as casinos, bars and a red-light district. During U.S. prohibition in the 1920s, some of the underground tunnels were used for bootleggers to smuggle liquor and gain access from the US to Mexicali's bordellos and opium dens.
Fortunately, the La Chinesca museum has recently led a movement to renovate and reopen some of the underground locations and above-ground alleys complete with murals, art, historical items and entertainment. They have brought back the history of the Chinese immigrants and heroes who put their stamp on Mexicali.
Add the guided tour (taking you back a century) to your itinerary and complete it by visiting one of the famous Chinese food restaurants in Mexicali. Details are below.
Guided tours are Thursday to Sunday and last about an hour & 45 minutes. Bring water. Cost is around $10 USD. Tours are in Spanish but worth it for English speakers. Make sure to inquire if they will have the Lion Dance after the underground tour.
Interested in more information or taking the tour?
Contact them at https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100064772856377
You can also watch a video of the Lion Dance on https://www.instagram.com/bajavisitor/
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